Mary E Wheildon OP - St Mary’s Priory 1956 -61 - travelled to Antarctica on the Shackleton Centenary Expedition from 18th November – 12th December 2014
I was privileged to travel with Ice Tracks Expeditions + Friends of Scott Polar Research Institute on their Shackleton Centenary Voyage to the Falklands, South Georgia & Antarctica with Lecturers including the late Henry Worsley, 11 descendants of Ernest Shackleton’s men & 80 other passengers who were all so keen to fulfil their dreams, aspirations & see a world so beautiful & historic.
Some of the passengers had worked in the Antarctic, for some the knowledge & love of the Heroic age is a hobby, for the descendants it was stepping into the memories of their grandparent’s tales on the lap as children. Others found deeper knowledge from all the stories shared by the lecturers, the friends & purely being in the historic locations.
We enjoyed two days on the Falkland Islands enjoying amazing wildlife, glorious countryside, wonderful bays & a marvellous insight into life in the capital Stanley both present & historic.
While at sea life was a mixture of lectures, life on deck spotting albatross, prions, petrels, storm-petrels, fulmars & of course looking out for whales when not eating, drinking or socialising. When all that was done – maybe relaxing in the hot tub or even the sauna!
I am so in love with South Georgia, for me it is the number one island in the world – Bhutan number one country after six visits! The beauty, the wildlife and the drama both climatic and historic are unsurpassed. Landing at King Haaken Bay was an honour, here with the descendants of Shackleton & his brave men who movingly read from the diaries while the penguins, seals and birds went about their daily routine.
The joy when we saw the endemic & critical South Georgia Pipit & the Wilson’s Storm Petrel as well as the South Georgia Pintail who at last are increasing after the eradication of the rats from the island which had been brought in & multiplied catastrophically with the whalers. These are all now happily on the increase after tremendous fundraising to spread the bait – not an easy or cheap challenge taking helicopters, pilots & staff so far from civilization. The herd of reindeer that was also introduced by the whalers has also been culled as they were eating the endemic plants relied upon by the endemic fauna – we enjoyed the last of the venison aboard!
The Centenary service we held at the tiny Norwegian church at Grytviken was solemn, moving & again a privilege to attend. Descendants of Shackleton, Wordie, Orde-Lees, McCarthy, Kerr, Spencer Smith, Ferrar spoke with Rear Admiral Nick Lambert (former Captain of the Endurance & Chairman of SPRI) taking the service. Henry Worsley, who is the only man to have sledge-hauled both the North Pole & South Pole also spoke, he was our Historian in residence.
From the church we walked to Shackleton’s grave beside his right hand man’s grave Frank Wild & raised a glass to ‘The Boss’. With the wildlife, a tour of the remains of the whaling & the museums visited, it was time to head towards the South Shetland Islands & onwards to Cape Wild on Elephant Island. We were all ready to land at Elephant Island but as ever, the weather got the better, we could but look with pure amazement how & where Shackleton & those brave men landed & survived for oh so long.
There were more landings where we enjoyed the company of so much wildlife. The characters of the various penguin species, both young & mature, the birdlife simply amazing & the flora – well: tough!
Our camaraderie continued to strengthen the further into the trip we travelled, listening & learning from the stories, experiences & travels of those we joined over breakfast, lunch & dinner; over a cup of tea, a smoothie or a beer in the morning; over a cup of tea & biscuit or that early glass of wine or whisky (or vodka) in the afternoon. Social life was at its best, more stories and songs & of course history.
But excitement gathered momentum landing after landing as we sailed the South Scotia Sea towards the Antarctic; we sighted more whales, enjoyed fabulous sunsets; icebergs became a more frequent photographic challenge and always the chance of a good picture of the seabirds.
We had with us some penguin researchers who were counting & studying each of the colonies we came to; from these young men we learned how modern technology allows them to count from satellite surveillance besides noting that a healthy colony will leave pink snow rather than an unhealthy colony green, produced from bile meaning that they were hungry – sometimes caused by over fishing of their krill. Recently unknown colonies have been discovered by this method.
Arriving down at the Antarctic shelf we were blessed with unbelievable sights, weather & wildlife. The waters were home to a few whales but many more penguin colonies, seals & icebergs, brash and other incredible ice forms.
We were able to climb high to gain better views, some enjoying sliding back down benefiting from the wet weather gear provided by the ship. These had kept us dry through thick & thin, but their jackets had to be left at the bottom of the slope as the temperature reached an amazing 22c.
We experienced our final zodiac cruise amongst icebergs, some resembled birds, animals & even the Sydney Opera house joined by spouting whales, cormorants & a leopard seal.
Again conditions prevented us when attempting to sail through the Gerlache Straights but the pleasures of a surprise ‘Drake Lake’ rather than the more challenging Drake Shake returning to ‘Cape Horn’ were much appreciated! It was beyond belief that I was able to stand out on deck with my evening glass of wine in hand taking the sun on that historically challenging point.
Our trip aboard the Vavalov, having finally sailed up the Beagle Channel had ended but our group had jelled like no other. We had learned so much from our incredible lecturers, we had been saturated in each other’s stories of ancestors, friends, experiences & travel. We were full of anticipation for future trips no more importantly than that of our great Polar Historian Henry Worsley. He was to attempt to cross the South Pole unaided on Shackleton’s planned route for the Endeavour Fund.
I met him again at a lunch party in September just as he was going into his training. Although held up for three weeks in Punte Arenas waiting for the weather to better, he finally started on this amazing challenge.
We have all been listening into his daily recordings; some days full of enthusiasm & joy, others drained after a day of pure uphill slog. Sadly just 30 miles from his goal after almost 1000 miles he was taken off the ice with what he felt was exhaustion - sadly this proved to be peritonitis, being ‘spent’ his body just closed down. What a tragedy – the loss of such a warm, enthusiastic, competent and kind man; he leads the modern Heroic Age.
I have been privileged.
MW - 8 February 2016